We had heard so many positive things about Cusco that we decided to spend more time here than we had spent in other places. After our scenic cross-country rail experience from Puno, we jumped into a taxi to get to our hostel. Being a homestay, we had timed our arrival perfectly as the cab pulled into the road at the same time as our host returned from work. He greeted us and gave us a tour of the house. This place was incredible, and as a rare treat, came with hot water on demand (Woo, no more fights to be the first in the shower!)
We got in contact with Hugo and Martina, who we knew were in the area at the same time. They suggested meeting up for dinner at a burger place on the main square. We had a great catch up over the things we had gotten up to since we last saw each other in La Paz. Sharing the story of the eco-lodge in Copacabana provided some great entertainment in the reactions from our friends, and it goes to show that given it was bloody frightening at the time, things in hindsight never seem so bad.
The next morning, we woke up to the best breakfast we had in a long time. This homestay provided a bacon omelette, fresh bread and pancakes with mango! Unbelievable, given this was also working out as one the cheapest hotels we had stayed in, this was unexpected. We feasted and our tummies were very happy!
We headed out to one of the squares in the city to join onto a free walking tour. This activity is one of our main staples during visits to places when we travel, we found the guide standing in a big yellow jacket. He looked like a shady character and the group for the tour were standing nowhere him. Likewise, when we introduced ourselves, he mentioned the tour would be starting soon and took a few paces away from us. We had showered, so we were sure this wasn’t due to an unpleasant odour!
A few moments later and the jacket was taken off. The guide asked the group to follow him to the other side of the square. His demeanour seemed more friendly all of a sudden, and he was up for a chat. The reason for this dramatic start to the tour was to avoid our guide being targeted by walking tour hosts who run paid tours. Seems like it’s a tough market and the paid tours are not fans of the free/tour for tips model.
We were given a grand tour of the city. Being shown the sights and sounds of today as well as guided into the historical aspect of Cusco. One part that stuck out for me was the walk around a set of ruins which once held an Incan temple. It was great to imagine what it must have been like to live within this structure. Unfortunately, as seems to be a prominent theme within Peru, the Spanish settlers didn’t have much for the ways of old and repurposed the temple by building over it. Thankfully, for the people of today, this rebuilding took place upon the original foundations which have now been preserved! Phew!
Ruins 
Incan walls 
Balcony sights 
Old streets, Old Cars
Our free walking tour ended in a travel agency, how convenient (and somewhat captive market-y). We were debating doing an excursion to the rainbow mountain just outside of Cusco, and this place had tours on offer. We sat down, and before we knew it, we were booking an excursion. The travel agency warned us that the weather in the area is too unpredictable and that if it rained the view at the rainbow mountain turns disappointingly monotone. We ummed and ahh for a little bit and decided to stick with our plan of going to see the rainbow!
We finished up in the booking office and noticed the time. Katy had organised the final surprise for my 30th (postponed from Mendoza), and we had to get back to the hostel pronto! A quick dash across the city managed to leave us huffing and puffing! The altitude really does a number on the fitness!
When we got back, the driver was waiting outside the hostel. In true arranged tour style, he was 10 minutes early so we asked if we could have a few minutes to get changed and get ready for the activity. I asked Katy what I would need to be wearing, as I still didn’t know what this activity was. She grabbed my coat, thrust it towards me and said, “This should do it”.
As we drove out of the central Cusco, the heavens opened. The rain wasn’t even a light splattering, this was a full torrential rainstorm. At this point, Katy looked at me with a face that displayed both sadness and anger. The worry had settled in again that the activity would have to be cancelled and thus postponed again for a later date. She then decided that there was enough secrecy and proceeded to tell me the plan. We were going to go to PARAGLIDING!!!! So yes, I can see now why the rain would be a cause for concern.
We pulled over to meet the instructor who rushed us into this car. He told us not to worry as the climate in the area varies dramatically between various sub-regions. He had mentioned that when he did some glides (I assume this would be the short-hand verb for this?) earlier in the day, the weather had been stunning. So, we headed out in the car and were given a complimentary glass of Inca cola. (Great stuff imagine a yellow version or irn-bru, and you’re basically there. Of course, it’s loaded with sugar so forget about getting this in UK post sugar tax).
We arrived at the top of a mound littered with aerial radio masts. Makes sense, it seemed that most of the surrounding area’s communications would be coming thought this point. True to the instructor’s word, the weather had completely changed during the drive. Upon this mound, we were treated to fantastic views of the sun breaking through the clouds far away. We were also hit with strong gusts of wind, which gave the instructor an uneasy feeling. As a result, we waited a fair amount of time until the conditions became favourable.
An hour and a bit had passed, and the daylight was starting to slip away. Our instructor was really keen on us being able to complete the jump, so he suggested we drive down to a lower point and try from there. When we pulled in, the focus was to get packed up as quickly as possible. Katy got kitted up and strapped in as the instructor had determined it was the best time to go for the jump. In a matter of seconds, the chute was in the air. The instructor was running, and taking off into the air, with my girlfriend.Other circumstances and this would have been a cause for concern.
The sight was fantastic, and I ended up spending a fair amount of time taking far too many photos of Katy dancing in the sky. It looked such fun, and I couldn’t wait for my turn. The driver I was with signalled we had to go to the landing zone. A short drive away and we pulled into a tiny village. This felt like the real Peru, with people walking their livestock along the path. Katy came low the ground and skidded onto the field in front of us. Once her harness was undone, she came running over and told me how much fun it was! The instructor said the conditions were not perfect and packed everything up at lightning sped to ensure we got back to the jump zone during the ideal state.
This time we back up to the top amongst the radio towers. A quick set up and a run-down of what to do and I was ready to go. The countdown was given we ran towards the edge. I prayed that I was actually strapped in as we leapt off the side of the hill.
Wow, that a feeling. This wasn’t the same adrenaline smash that a bungee jump or skydive would give. Instead, it was instant calm as we sailed through the air. The view was phenomenal as we got to take in the sunset as the instructor manipulated the wind to give us more altitude. The instructor then handed me a walkie talkie, and I was able to talk to Katy, who was on the receiving end of a list of compliments for this incredible birthday treat. Another activity to cross off of our list.
Thought the flight was probably not that long in duration, it felt like a lifetime floating and cutting through the air. The scenery below was incredible. However, it had to come to an end at some point. The instructor started to bring us back down to the ground below. When we neared the landing spot, I received instructions that were similar to the ones on the skydive; lift your legs up and then lift them some more, else you may lose a leg. Expecting to go sliding along my bum I was a bit shocked when we came close to the ground, appeared to hover and then landed abruptly in a seated position. Top marks for the landing!
The instructor and I waited for Katy and the driver to come to meet us. He packed up all the gear and e talked for a bit while the time passed. After what felt like far too long, they turned up at the landing zone, and we headed back to town. Both of us now having had our adrenaline rush for the day, we were ready for some dinner.
Thankfully, right next to our hostel was a local diner-type establishment. This venue served a dish that I had been craving for a while, Salchipapa. This dish, while nothing special, seems to be a mainstay for many of the locals in Peru, as nearly all the locations we had visited sold this. It comprises of hot dog sausages carefully sliced and fried, served on top of fried potato. Our local place had the extra touch of chucking some rice in too. Dual carb, Double win!
